Sustainability meets innovation: The rediscovery of plastics in the textile industry

The textile industry is in the midst of a green transformation, with sustainability and recycling taking centre stage. This change is being driven by a growing awareness of the environmental impact of textile production and consumption. Plastics, particularly synthetic fibres such as polyester and nylon, are ubiquitous in the industry due to their versatility and cost-effectiveness. However, the long-term ecological consequences of their use are increasingly becoming the focus of public and scientific debate.

Plastics have proven to be indispensable in the modern textile industry by enabling a wide range of innovative products and revolutionising the functionality of textiles. In the home textiles industry, for example, synthetics offer solutions that are not only practical but also aesthetically pleasing. Synthetic carpets that repel dirt and are easy to clean and hard-wearing furniture covers that retain their appearance for years are just a few examples of their versatile applications. Their adaptability allows designers to experiment with a variety of textures, colours and patterns to suit different interior styles.

In the sports and leisure segment, synthetics have revolutionised clothing through the development of microfibres and other advanced materials that are lightweight, comfortable, breathable and waterproof. These properties are key to keeping athletes dry and comfortable in a variety of climates. In addition, synthetics enable bright, durable designs that meet aesthetic market demands.

Plastics are also indispensable in the manufacture of outdoor equipment such as tents, rucksacks and shoes, thanks to their durability and resistance to environmental influences. In the world of technical textiles, plastics are also paving the way for ground-breaking innovations in areas such as medicine, construction and the automotive industry, from implantable devices and wound dressings to materials that reinforce structures and increase the efficiency of vehicles while providing safety and comfort.

However, the widespread use of plastics in the textile industry has also been criticised by environmentalists. They point to problems such as microplastic pollution that accumulates in the oceans and the challenge of disposing of plastic products, which often end up in landfills or are incinerated, leading to further environmental pollution. The high consumption of crude oil for the production of plastics and the associated CO2 emissions are also viewed critically. Organisations such as Greenpeace and the World Wildlife Fund (WWF) are therefore calling for a more responsible use of plastics, including the promotion of recycling and the development of sustainable alternatives such as bio-based plastics.

This criticism underlines the need for the textile industry to find innovative solutions that not only improve the functionality and aesthetics of products, but also minimise their environmental footprint. Projects such as the European Union-backed WhiteCycle endeavour to develop effective recycling methods for textiles, and companies such as Patagonia and Adidas are leading the way with initiatives to use recycled and sustainable materials.

The challenge of making plastics sustainable has led to innovative advances in recycling and the development of bio-based materials. Modern recycling processes, such as mechanical recycling and chemical recycling, transform end-of-life textiles into new fibres, reducing the consumption of virgin materials and lowering the environmental impact. Projects such as WhiteCycle aim to optimise the recycling of polyamide and polyester fibres in order to establish an efficient Circular Economy in the EU.

A key challenge is to maintain fibre quality during the recycling process while implementing efficient separation and purification technologies. Through advanced chemical depolymerisation processes that break down plastics into their monomeric components, WhiteCycle enables the creation of a truly circular process that reduces the need for virgin material and helps to reduce environmental impact.

The project brings together a wide range of stakeholders from industry, research and environmental protection to achieve these goals. The success of WhiteCycle could have a far-reaching positive impact on the textile industry by paving the way for more sustainable production and consumption models.

At the same time, bio-based plastics are gaining in importance as they offer a more environmentally friendly alternative to conventional, petroleum-based materials. These renewable raw materials, which are derived from plants such as corn, sugar cane or cellulose, reduce CO2 emissions and can be biodegradable if treated appropriately. Companies such as BASF and Covestro are leading the way in the development of such materials, which not only reduce environmental footprints but also offer new properties for specific applications.

The textile industry is looking forward to a bright future through innovative projects and partnerships that combine sustainability and functionality. This includes, for example, the HSBI transfer project INCAMS, also known as InCamS@BI. An innovation campus for sustainable solutions at Bielefeld University of Applied Sciences. It focuses on research and development in the field of the circular economy, in particular on sustainable materials research to optimise plastics and their reuse. The project promotes the exchange between science, business and society through innovative formats and an interdisciplinary team to develop research-based transfer structures. INCAMS will receive 8.8 million euros in funding from 2023 to 2027 as part of the federal-state initiative "Innovative University".

The German Institute of Textile and Fibre Research (DITF) has also made impressive progress with the development of recyclable, flame-retardant textile flooring, demonstrating that environmental sustainability does not require a compromise on functionality. The challenge in developing recyclable, flame retardant textiles is to find and develop materials that enable these properties without the use of harmful chemicals. Traditionally, flame retardancy requires the use of chemicals that can make recycling difficult or contaminate the recycled materials for further use. The DITF has researched innovative solutions where both the structure of the textile and the choice of materials are optimised to provide natural or environmentally friendly flame retardant properties without compromising recyclability.

The integration of plastics into the textile industry with a strong focus on sustainability and innovation promises an exciting future. The combination of advanced recycling technologies, the development of bio-based materials and the realisation of innovative projects is ushering in a new era of textile production. These developments exemplify the industry's commitment to tackling environmental challenges while improving the functionality and aesthetics of products. The textile industry is proving that through creativity, research and technological advances, a more sustainable and responsible path is possible.